I've build a 'milking machine', to suck my cock.
It's partially inspired by the one, which SiriusB build, which you'll find here: More...
This one is build using two bicycle pumps (actually 4), my bayonet saw, an old shelf, a variety of valves and hoses, from my local aquarium shop, a bunch of different brackets, hinges, screws, nuts and bolts, and an (empty) olive-glass.
Material-list:
* 1 bayonet saw (750W)
* 2+2 bicycle pumps
* 2 small angled brackets
* 1 piece of wood
* 1 gate-hinge
* 1 piece of shelf
* 1 old tool, for the laying of 'click-wooden floor'
* 2 very stable angled brackets
* 2 angled brackets
* 2 'mounting plates'
* 1 padlock bracket
* 4 door-stoppers (for 'legs')
* 1 (empty) olive-glass
* 1 meter 6mm threaded rod
* 3 meter aquarium air hose
* 3 'extending links' for aquarium air hose
* 1 adjustment valve for aquarium air hose
* 2 T-links for aquarium air hose
* 1 'return-stop-valve for aquarium air hose
* Patent strip
* a bit of bicycle air-hose (MTB)
* lots of screws, nuts, bolts, washers and so on.
To start in 'the funny end' I show you how I configured the olive glass, and some of the gadgets for aquarium air hose.
I have used a diamond-drill to drill a hole, at the bottom of the olive glass, in order to get the air in/out, and have glued an 'hose-adapter' to the glass.
I actually found, that in the way, that I got the odds and ends together, there was a certain disadvantage, in the fact that the bicycle pumps seemed to give a little more air, than they would remove - which meant that my cock would slowly but steadily be pushed out of the olive glass - which by no means was my intention.
Thus I made the modification, with the 'one way valve', which allows the air to move out of the system, but does not allow air to come in to the system, thus eliminating this inconvinience.
I've tried to illustrate the functionality of this, in the diagram above. The adjustment valve (gray) can be opened more or less, to control how much air disappear out of the system on each pump-stroke. The (black'n'white) one-way-valve allows air to flow through in one direction, but blocks air from flowing 'the other way'. It's intended to allow air from the aquarium air pump to get into the aquarium, but to prevent the water from the aquarium to get to the pump - in case the pump is lower than the water surface of the aquarium.
In this simple but effective manner I've solved the problem with un-certified pumps, and their tendency to give 'unadjusted pumping results'.
In order to get a pleasant feel, to the open end of the olive glass, as well as in order to get a good 'sealing', I've applied a short bit of bicycle tire air hose, to the opening, with both 'cut sides' taped to the glass opening, by means of some electricians tape.
This gives me a soft 'mound', and a good air-seal.
The pumps are the same kind, as I've used to make vacuum pumps for years, and that's where I got the idea from. The details on how are here: More...
I'm using two pumps, as I'd like to move a large amount of air, and as there are limitations to how much I can move the handles, I simply made a 'double barrel' pump(s).
At the pictures above, you can see how I mounted the pumps.
At the two first pic's, you see how I've used two (straightened) angled brackets, to mount the pump handles to the arm, moved by the bayonet saw. It's a definate necessity to have the handles mounted in such a way, that nothing is hindering the free movement of them, according to the arm.
Inside the hole, which I drilled into the pump handles, I've placed a piece of aluminum pipe, in order to prevent the threaded rod from gnawing the wooden handles to shreds.
At the next pic, you can see how I've used a long piece of threaded rod, to mount the bottom end of the pumps to the brackets, holding them steadily just above the bayonet saw.
At the last pic, you see how I've mounted the patent strap to the threaded rod, in order to keep the pumps in place.
In order to extract the power from the bayonet saw blade, I've used two 'mounting plates' with holes in them. It might look a little 'overkill' to go this far, but believe me, it isn't.
I have tried to simply drill a hole in the hardened sawblade, but my drills are either too cheap, or maybe it's utterly impossible - but this solution does actually work quite nicely.
What I've done is to buy two plates with holes in them, and next I've drilled the holes up, in order to allow for a 6 mm bolt to go through them. Next I screwed the plates on to either side of the saw blade, and finally I've drilled an appropriately placed 6 mm hole through both plates, for the piece of threaded rod which is transferring the power to the arm.
The bracket I've used to screw on to the arm, actually is the 'short end' of a padlock bracket.
I simply cut the brass axle holding the two parts of the padlock bracket together (like a hinge), and next to this, I drilled the hole (from the brass axle) a little larger, to allow for the 6 mm threaded rod to pass through it.
Finally I mounted this one to the threaded rod, drilled the necessary holes in the arm, and mounted it into place.
Now the obvious question would be "why not use a stable wood-screw, and simply screw it into the wood, on the arm, but the unfortunate truth is, that I tried this approach, and the screw simply broke off it's head, after a few minutes...
To enable the arm to move - in the desired way, and no other way - I've made use of a good gate-hinge.
This kind of hinge give two advantages 1/ good stability, and good possibilities for mounting, which is an absolute must - we're playing around with 750 Watts of force here.
I have chosen to stabilize the metal with a piece of 15x43mm wood, in order to keep it from 'bending', which would absorb some of the piower, which I intended to reach the pump handles.
The top of the arm (black metal) actually is a tool, which I got, as I was laying a wooden floor someplace, but as the dimensions and shape fitted the job perfectly, I used it here.
The orange colored 'wheel' you see at the handle of the bayonet saw is the 'speed adjustment' knob.
Here you also see how I have assembled the air hose from the two pumps into one, with a T..
I have (of course) made a video, of the machine 'at work, see it here:
It's partially inspired by the one, which SiriusB build, which you'll find here: More...
This one is build using two bicycle pumps (actually 4), my bayonet saw, an old shelf, a variety of valves and hoses, from my local aquarium shop, a bunch of different brackets, hinges, screws, nuts and bolts, and an (empty) olive-glass.
Material-list:
* 1 bayonet saw (750W)
* 2+2 bicycle pumps
* 2 small angled brackets
* 1 piece of wood
* 1 gate-hinge
* 1 piece of shelf
* 1 old tool, for the laying of 'click-wooden floor'
* 2 very stable angled brackets
* 2 angled brackets
* 2 'mounting plates'
* 1 padlock bracket
* 4 door-stoppers (for 'legs')
* 1 (empty) olive-glass
* 1 meter 6mm threaded rod
* 3 meter aquarium air hose
* 3 'extending links' for aquarium air hose
* 1 adjustment valve for aquarium air hose
* 2 T-links for aquarium air hose
* 1 'return-stop-valve for aquarium air hose
* Patent strip
* a bit of bicycle air-hose (MTB)
* lots of screws, nuts, bolts, washers and so on.
To start in 'the funny end' I show you how I configured the olive glass, and some of the gadgets for aquarium air hose.
I have used a diamond-drill to drill a hole, at the bottom of the olive glass, in order to get the air in/out, and have glued an 'hose-adapter' to the glass.
I actually found, that in the way, that I got the odds and ends together, there was a certain disadvantage, in the fact that the bicycle pumps seemed to give a little more air, than they would remove - which meant that my cock would slowly but steadily be pushed out of the olive glass - which by no means was my intention.
Thus I made the modification, with the 'one way valve', which allows the air to move out of the system, but does not allow air to come in to the system, thus eliminating this inconvinience.
I've tried to illustrate the functionality of this, in the diagram above. The adjustment valve (gray) can be opened more or less, to control how much air disappear out of the system on each pump-stroke. The (black'n'white) one-way-valve allows air to flow through in one direction, but blocks air from flowing 'the other way'. It's intended to allow air from the aquarium air pump to get into the aquarium, but to prevent the water from the aquarium to get to the pump - in case the pump is lower than the water surface of the aquarium.
In this simple but effective manner I've solved the problem with un-certified pumps, and their tendency to give 'unadjusted pumping results'.
In order to get a pleasant feel, to the open end of the olive glass, as well as in order to get a good 'sealing', I've applied a short bit of bicycle tire air hose, to the opening, with both 'cut sides' taped to the glass opening, by means of some electricians tape.
This gives me a soft 'mound', and a good air-seal.
The pumps are the same kind, as I've used to make vacuum pumps for years, and that's where I got the idea from. The details on how are here: More...
I'm using two pumps, as I'd like to move a large amount of air, and as there are limitations to how much I can move the handles, I simply made a 'double barrel' pump(s).
At the pictures above, you can see how I mounted the pumps.
At the two first pic's, you see how I've used two (straightened) angled brackets, to mount the pump handles to the arm, moved by the bayonet saw. It's a definate necessity to have the handles mounted in such a way, that nothing is hindering the free movement of them, according to the arm.
Inside the hole, which I drilled into the pump handles, I've placed a piece of aluminum pipe, in order to prevent the threaded rod from gnawing the wooden handles to shreds.
At the next pic, you can see how I've used a long piece of threaded rod, to mount the bottom end of the pumps to the brackets, holding them steadily just above the bayonet saw.
At the last pic, you see how I've mounted the patent strap to the threaded rod, in order to keep the pumps in place.
In order to extract the power from the bayonet saw blade, I've used two 'mounting plates' with holes in them. It might look a little 'overkill' to go this far, but believe me, it isn't.
I have tried to simply drill a hole in the hardened sawblade, but my drills are either too cheap, or maybe it's utterly impossible - but this solution does actually work quite nicely.
What I've done is to buy two plates with holes in them, and next I've drilled the holes up, in order to allow for a 6 mm bolt to go through them. Next I screwed the plates on to either side of the saw blade, and finally I've drilled an appropriately placed 6 mm hole through both plates, for the piece of threaded rod which is transferring the power to the arm.
The bracket I've used to screw on to the arm, actually is the 'short end' of a padlock bracket.
I simply cut the brass axle holding the two parts of the padlock bracket together (like a hinge), and next to this, I drilled the hole (from the brass axle) a little larger, to allow for the 6 mm threaded rod to pass through it.
Finally I mounted this one to the threaded rod, drilled the necessary holes in the arm, and mounted it into place.
Now the obvious question would be "why not use a stable wood-screw, and simply screw it into the wood, on the arm, but the unfortunate truth is, that I tried this approach, and the screw simply broke off it's head, after a few minutes...
To enable the arm to move - in the desired way, and no other way - I've made use of a good gate-hinge.
This kind of hinge give two advantages 1/ good stability, and good possibilities for mounting, which is an absolute must - we're playing around with 750 Watts of force here.
I have chosen to stabilize the metal with a piece of 15x43mm wood, in order to keep it from 'bending', which would absorb some of the piower, which I intended to reach the pump handles.
The top of the arm (black metal) actually is a tool, which I got, as I was laying a wooden floor someplace, but as the dimensions and shape fitted the job perfectly, I used it here.
The orange colored 'wheel' you see at the handle of the bayonet saw is the 'speed adjustment' knob.
Here you also see how I have assembled the air hose from the two pumps into one, with a T..
I have (of course) made a video, of the machine 'at work, see it here: