Help! My car broke down...

[Dragonfly]

Thanks, Dragonfly. I didn't know aftermarket = performance parts. There's just so many different brands of radiators with different prices. Yeah, I just want regular stock stuff. My car is all stock. I think the only thing close to "performance" parts I've put in a car was "high mileage" oil and filters.

Well, they're not always "performance" parts per se, but anyway...

If you want to DIY, you can always get an OEM radiator from the dealership, they usually have a "parts" counter. That's probably your best bet. You can find "aftermarket" parts which are a direct "OEM" fit, from the web, and whatever.

You should, however, get it professionally done. For the safe disposal of the fluids, the warranty that comes with a new piece of equipment, and the labour. You should try to find a reputable Honda dealership in your area for this kind of work, and check if your insurance will cover this damage.

 

[versatastic]

My car is out of warranty and it's already been in a font-end collision several years ago. I just need this thing to run again.

I just finished removing everything, including the busted condenser (another part I need to replace now). Neither of them were OEM from the dealership, so I'll just get whatever "direct fit OEM" parts are the cheapest. The dealer has a radiator for $400 and a condenser for $260. That's way too much for me.

The bottom of the radiator support assembly was pushed in in the middle and kind of flattened out vertically. It took a bit of elbow grease, a hefty pipe wrench, vise grips, and a crow bar, but I straightened it out and crimped it back to match the ends so that the new parts can nestle in properly.

I'm pretty confident in replacing the radiator and condenser myself now that I've spent some time with removing everything. I will definitely take it to a mechanic afterwards, though just to make sure everything is ok. I dunno if I'll get the freon refilled or not. I never use the A/C anyway.

 

[Dragonfly]

I wasn't aware there was a condenser for the radiator.

However you may want to use the A/C. At some point gaises were talking about adding 2/3 PSI of pressure to the engine air intake using the A/C compressor...

When I pointed out that they might want to use the A/C someday, stuck in traffic on a scorching day, with all the normal people around them basking in the cool breeze. I think they agreed.

 

[trawler69]

If you don't use the aircon you don't need to replace the condenser, just pull the wire of the electric clutch on the compressor to avoid accidentally turning it on. You could always go to a scrap yard for the parts, they would be a lot cheaper.

 

[looseliam]

Replacing the condenser requires a refrigerant machine to evacuate the system and charge it. Worry about it later.

 

[versatastic]

Yeah, I think I'm just going to flatten out the condenser and pop it back in for now. I haven't used the A/C in years.

 

[backpacker]

I have a few things for you to check on the engine. First, pull the dip stick for the oil. Is the oil level over full? Does it look like normal oil? If not, is there water/anti-freeze in the oil? Does the oil smell burnt? These would all be signs that the head gasket is leaking and the engine shouldn't be started.

Have you tried to start the engine again? If so, did it quickly die again like the last time (when you restarted it after 5 minutes)? By the way, I don't recommend trying to start it again until a mechanic checks it out.

Put a socket or wrench on the crankshaft pulley and see if the engine turns. It won't be easy to turn, but shouldn't be real hard to turn either (you are moving the cylinders and the engine should have compressions) (Note: If you have a manual transmission, put it in neutral before turning). If the crank is very hard to turn or you hear any grinding noise, you probably damaged the bearings. If this is the case, that typically means you need an entire engine rebuild.

The reason why I'm asking these questions is that if you do have serious engine damage, there is a chance they will need to pull the radiator to repair the engine. It really depends on the space under the hood and what they need to do. You typically don't need to pull the radiator to pull the head, but if they need to pull the block they will probably have to pull the radiator. You could check your repair manual to see what steps are necessary for pulling the head and the block (engine). No sense in putting a radiator in if the mechanic will have to take it out.

As far as radiators go, most after market radiators are fine. There is no need to pay dealer prices for an OEM radiator. I personally stay away from any re-manufactured radiators as I have often seen problems with them (others disagree with me on this). Sure if it leaks (either immediately or during the warrant) the warranty will replace it, but you have to provide the labor. For me, it's not worth the risk.