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Trying to repair an old arcade game I found at a garage sale
- Thread starter Dominus
- Start date
Thad1527
Uncharted
If it doesn't automatically reboot when you turn it on, I think you've got a challenge.
I like that you're giving this another chance.
I like that you're giving this another chance.
Well, if anyone can fix it, you can. Good Luck.
Interesting to get an update on what you discover. Hope it's actually fixable.
Dominus
JUB Addict
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- Dec 9, 2017
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I plugged it into my computer. Did not detect any file corruption. So, I am almost certain it's the main board.
I have 2 options.
1. Test every resistor and diode on the board to find the burnt out part. Then de-solder it and solder on new one. Should take me about 100 hrs to do.
2. Spend $30 to buy a new mainboard LOL.
Gee, I wonder which route I will take.
Good luck trying to fix it and if you get it working that would be a nice collectable to have
LeicsDom
JUB Addict
I wouldn't have a clue where to start
I am very envious of people who can tinker with stuff to repair it. I have no aptitude at all
I am very envious of people who can tinker with stuff to repair it. I have no aptitude at all
Ditto. If changing the fuse doesn't fix it, out it goes.
pigface
JUB Addict
That's not the original display, so someone has been swapping parts. It may have a piece of incompatible hardware in it.
Non of the components are original. Arcade cabinets used CRT monitors but that is not the problem here. The game board would have been 12 or 14 inches square, as you can see from the pre drilled holes on the inside right side. Those boards, with a 0.1 inch pin spacing, are repairable. The small recent replacement, with all surface mounted components, is not really repairable unless you have highly specialised skills. Don't waste time trying when copy boards are so cheap. The power supply is not the type used in arcade games, it is a low cost PSU for a domestic computer. This is where I would look first. The capacitors fail after a few years of running hot. The -5 and +12 volt line is not critical, the +5v and +3v3 voltages are critical, as measured at the board end. If these are out there are trimmers on the PSU which might bring the voltages back in line but it is cheaper to just replace the PSU than try to repair it.
Original genuine arcade classics like Galaxian and Defender go for a lot of money if they are still working but when they fail, they are doomed, the memory components are no longer available at any price.
Original genuine arcade classics like Galaxian and Defender go for a lot of money if they are still working but when they fail, they are doomed, the memory components are no longer available at any price.
